Anniversary

Today, September 29th, marks the 7th anniversary of the 2009 tsunami that hit American Samoa. It was the result of extremely strong earthquake activity in the Pacific Ocean. There were actually three seperarate earthquakes within a couple of minutes along the Tongan Trench. Two were 8.0 and then the last was 8.2. The time between the earthquakes and the tsunami was a mere 12 minutes, so many islanders were caught off guard. This event caused significant loss of life and property damage in American Samoa, Samoa and Tonga. In American Samoa alone, there were 35 confirmed deaths along with more missing. Some beachside villages were virtually wiped out and others were left in shambles.

A friend of ours, Doug Berquist, who lives here in American Samoa shared this memory today: "September 29, 2009, a day I will always remember. I had just left town after dropping my son off at work in Fagotago. The roar of the earthquake and the shaking was beyond belief an 8.2, it sounded and felt like the island was going to split in two. As I hurried back to Leone to help at school and check on my wife I was driving along the coast line and watching the reef go completely dry. I was listening to the radio and the last thing I heard was the water was at the second story. Communications went down so I didn't know if my son was OK. The road was covered with slides and I was hoping I would make it before the tsunami hit. After getting home and several hours later i got in touch with my son. The devastation and loss of loss was horrific."

We first came to American Samoa in 2011, two years after that event. One morning as I was dropping Levi off at his school they asked me if I would stay a couple of hours to help judge the science fair projects that were set up in the fale. I, along with a couple of other WAY more qualified individuals, like actual scientists, walked around the fale inspecting each project. The students were allowed to tell us a little about their project and answer questions. I remember one of the projects was about the science of earthquakes and tsunamis. Taped all over the board were striking pictures of the devestation left from the 2009 tsunami in American Samoa. The student, a young lady probably in 5th grade, was telling us about why she chose that topic. I remember this vividly. She stopped mid sentence. She went silent for a minute, looked at our faces, and her eyes filled with tears. She ran from the fale and found a teacher nearby to hug. We looked at the project and saw that her village had been almost wiped out from that tsunami. She had lost her aunt and grandma. It was devestating. This brave young lady came back to us and we offered her hugs and condolances and she was able to tell us about her experience. It was such a powerful and personal reminder of the reality of natural disasters on a small island.

Since that event the government of American Samoa has set up warning systems. About once a month they are tested. So every once in awhile we will hear the speakers blarring a warning bell. There are also numerous tsunami warning signs posted all over the island. The signs tell you when you are entering and leaving a tsunami area. They also have signs to show routes off the main road that will lead to higher ground.

A couple of months ago, sometime in the summer, Levi and Finn and I were out on the beach having a picnic. We had only been here a month or two at that point and I hadn't heard the warning system and really hadn't given it any thought. The tide just happened to be super low at that time of day. Like eerily low. I remember driving up to the beach thinking about earthquakes and tsunamis because I know that the tide goes way out before a tsunami hits. But I hadn't felt or heard of any earthquakes that morning so we went ahead and set up our picnic. All of a sudden in the middle of eating we heard the loud, low, warning bell tones. Levi had finished eating and was way out investigating the coral since so much of it was exposed. It just gave me such an errie feeling to hear those warning bells and see him way out in the ocean. The warning bell was followed by instruction in Samoan. Of course, since we don't speak Samoan, I had no idea if it was a test or a real threat. So we packed up as fast as we could and rushed to the car just to be safe. As I was starting the car I heard the follow up instructions in English. Yep, just a test. Better safe than sorry!


There is a beautiful memorial set up on the island in remberance of those lost September 29th 2009. It is facing the breathtaking Pacific. The same ocean that took those lives, also gives life and beauty everyday. This also just happens to be the 10th anniversary of my mom's passing. She passed away Septemer 29th, 2006 after a battle with cancer. Ten year ago I held her hand and sat by her bed in her room and along with my sisters we watched her take her last breath. She said she had to go and she would be having margaritas by the sea and that some day we would be reunited and maybe we can sit together on the beach. Well, tonight, I'm not having a margarita, but a glass of Chardonny (which I'm 100% certain she would approve of). I'm raising my glass tonight for all those lost here in beautiful American Samoa on this day 7 years ago and my momma back home. I have a feeling she would like this view.

Aiga Bus

There is a form of transportation in American Samoa that is unique to anywhere else I'm aware of.  It's the aiga bus (pronounced ay-een-ga, meaning 'family'), built and operated by entrepreneurs on the island. A typical aiga bus is a converted Ford F450 with wooden seats, plastic working windows, and a pull string running the length of the roof used to notify the driver to "pull over!"  All aiga buses have a colorful paint job, with or without a message of faith or advice, like "You listen I talk", or "God is good".

There is a bus with an emblazoned pigeon. There are a few buses with flames running down the side. There is a blue bus with a portrait of Bob Marley. My favorite artwork however is the one with an airbrushed desert scene straight out of the 70s, complete with an illustration of a small green aiga bus transporting locals around the landscape.

When I don't have a ride into work, I'll catch an aiga bus.  There is a bus stop at the end of my street, and there aren't too many detours or stops on the way into work, so we make pretty good time, about 30 minutes.  Plus, I like being able to read and not having to drive.

And the buses have a variety of entertainment on board; sometimes it is ear-crushing Samoan music, and other times it might be a rugby game on a TV installed above the driver (!). One time I caught a ride and was entertained by a series of ABBA videos on the way in to work.  

It seems like the unspoken rule of the bus is that no one talks.  Of all the trips I have taken, there have been no conversations, not even with kids.

The aiga buses have a handful of routes they run around the island, as designated by the name of the village printed on the front of the bus, usually by a cardboard placard in the front window: Tafuna, Aua, Leone, etc.  In the central village of Pago, there is a parking area which acts as a turnabout for the routes; they head in from the named village, make stops along the way, and turn around in Pago to return back to the village the way they came. Rides cost a buck.

One time I caught a bus after work, but it was full of tuna plant workers.  Not until that moment had I truly experienced the phrase "packed in like a can of sardines".  The close quarters were one thing, but the worst was the smell. I thought that as we drove along the ocean, perhaps the smell would dissipate, but I was wrong.  My face transformed into a permanent scowl.  My nose hairs curled. I stopped at the next stop and awarded myself with an ice cream cone, walking part of the way home.

Today the whole family caught an aiga bus. We let Levi flag the bus down, and the kids really enjoyed the ride.  Finn said a couple of times how cool it was and how he wanted to do it again.  We will be riding in style again soon, I'm sure.

This is how Lonely Planet describes American Samoa and I completely agree:

There but for a more exotic name goes American Samoa. Mention of this distant archipelago more often than not elicits a blank stare, but despite its mundane moniker and confusing status (it belongs to, but isn’t a part of, the US), American Samoa is one of the most breathtakingly beautiful pockets of Polynesia.

A photogenic feast of green jagged peaks, electric-blue depths and idyllic beaches, American Samoa’s islands are the stuff South Pacific daydreams are made of. Tutuila is home to Pago Pago, a blue-collar fishing town nestled beside one of the world’s most stunning natural harbours; outside city limits, flower-scented villages cling to deep-rooted traditions.

Read more: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/american-samoa/introduction#ixzz4EGyEdnND

It's true.  Everyday we walk out our front door and are immediately greeted with natural beauty. The mountains that anchor the center of the island are covered in lush greens of every type and shade, constantly changing with light and clouds.  It is truly a tropical paradise.  The road skirts around the mountains and then opens up to the wide, expanse of pacific ocean. It sparkles in the sun, somber and dramatic in the rain, and always breathtaking. I'm lucky the speed limit is only 25 mph around the island because it gives me time and grace to gawk at the water, the sky, the gorgeousness every. single. time.  I'm not kidding.  I drive this drive once and sometimes twice or three times a day and each time I'm floored by its beauty.

While the scene is certainly idyllic, island living is not always easy.  The water, the bacteria, the health care are just a few of the challenges.The last week or so we've all had some varying degree of illness.  At first I thought it was the water.  My stomach was churning.  I had little appetite.  I had a low grade headache and kind of achy.  Then a couple days later Levi had a fever and chills and vomiting.  And as quick as it came, it left.  Although he said his legs were sore for a day or so.  All the while, Finn has been saying on and off his tummy hurts and his eyes hurt every once and awhile and he has a rash on his legs and truck (or a bunch of bites, i can't really tell).  So we all have these different symptoms and they are not really all that bad most of the time.  The kids are still playing, have energy, seem mostly fine.  Last night I was looking up mosquito illnesses and it was like check, check, check.  I don't know.  Zika?  Chikungunya?  I don't think Dengue, but I guess it's a possibility. Or maybe just a mild flu? I'm leaning towards the flu because we all, even Grant, had a couple symptoms, so I'm guessing we just passed it to each other.  Who knows.  All I know is that we seem to be getting better and we're doing OK so far.

The radio gives daily Zika updates and I heard today that over 700 people in the territory are suspected to have contracted Zika.  For most people it causes no symptoms and for some it is like a mild flu.  Obviously the biggest concern is for pregnant women.  The public health department has been good at getting information out regarding how to reduce risk and even giving out kits to pregnant women with mosquito nets and repellent.  There are radio spots and even this notice in the paper.

I think I wrote about the hospital last time we were here.  All I can speak to is what I've experienced and heard from friends who either work there or had there own experience as a patient.  Five years ago we had to make a trip to the hospital in the middle of the night when Levi had a pneumonia.  We had a toddler in our arms with a 105 fever and not making any sense and we had to wake up the person behind the front desk. The waiting room was dirty, chickens out front, it was interesting.  We actually had a great experience with the doctor and got the care and medicine we needed for Levi.  We were lucky.  It is a hospital that is probably 50 years behind in technology.  From what I've heard, they also have a very hard time holding on to good doctors.  Doctors come for a bit and then move on.  Now, apparently, the hospital is in worse condition than it was five years ago. I know there are lots of political issues and problems with payments and compensation. The pediatrician situation is especially dire. However since our kids are fairly healthy, we think it's a risk we can take. But it's still a risk and at times I do worry.

Here is snippets of a report that came out from Radio New Zealand earlier this year on the state of the hospital,

 "Nurses at American Samoa's LBJ Hospital say the hospital's shortage of medical supplies is affecting the quality of patient care, with nurses forced to use bed sheets as dressings. Nurses say dressing supplies and other basic supplies such as gloves and gauzepads have run out, and LBJ Hospital is also reported to be out of some IV solutions. According to these nurses, they're using trash bags as underpads for the beds, to cover under the sheets. So that's a very worrying situation. I know that there's been a series of meetings between the governor and the people at the treasury. And the governor has basically told the treasurer that he should find money to pay the hospital."

We had an our own first hand experience with the hospital a couple weeks ago.  Levi was outside with Grant and they were working on setting up a badminton net.  Well, Grant was working on it and upbeknowst to him, Levi was trying to open a coconut with a pocket knife.  The knife slipped and sliced good and deep into Levi's pinkie finger.  They rushed in the house, blood dripping.  Levi was a strange mixture of panic and calm.  He kept saying, "look, it's not that bad.  Really I don't need to go to the hospital."  He said with thinly veiled panic in his voice. All the while Grant and I were frantically wrapping the finger in band aids that seemed as thin as reeds because as soon as we'd get one on the blood would seep right through.  Finally, after it soaked through three band aids we wrapped a dish towel around it and it started to soak through that so we realized we needed to take a trip to the dreaded hospital.  Dun Dun Duuuuun.  The reason Levi was trying so hard to be calm is because he had overheard too many conversations Grant and I have had about the medical care here on island.  I didn't realize how closely he was paying attention, but he was terrified about going to the hospital more than anything else.  I felt really bad about that and Grant and I tried to reassure him that they would be able to handle a cut finger just fine. Everything would be OK.

So Grant, and a very nervous Levi took off for the hospital and I stayed home with Finn.  They were lucky. It was Sunday morning and the ER was quiet, everyone was at church.  They got right in and the Samoan doctor on call decided the cut did not need stitches.  He cleaned the cut and put a new band aid on and away they went.  They were home within 2 hours.  It was a success.  Levi with a huge smile on his face was like, "Mom! It's just as good as the hospital at home!"  I'm not going to contradict him.  I don't want him to be afraid.  But no more playing with knives.  

Island Farmer

We were excited to hear that a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) started up on island and would be providing some of the produce that we appreciate so much.  While there are fruits and vegetables on-island, at the produce stands you are mostly limited to bananas, taro, papaya, long beans, bok choy, squash, breadfruit, a sort of cherry tomato, and coconut.  Grocery stores offer more produce options, but it is in varying levels of ripeness (read: over-ripe). One store that will remain unnamed sometimes trims the black parts off the cauliflower, creating a blocky, 8-bit vegetable, puts a discount sticker on it, and calls it good.

So when I heard that a CSA was providing hydroponic lettuce, kale, and other goodies, you could see why it put a smile on my face.

The pick-up spot is every Wednesday at Coconut Point.  It's a central spot on island, where you slowly drive by fales, houses in disrepair, churches, a basketball court, and graves. The farmer, Dustin, has got an idyllic pick-up spot in a small fale, overlooking the beautiful waters off Coconut Point. An overturned, abandoned boat lies on its side on the reef within view. Levi and Finn immediately went down to the water and started searching for shells and crabs. There's also a sort of treehouse that the kids explored.

On our first pickup, in addition to the greens and fruit, we got some coconut cream, smoked spearfish, salsa, and black bean hummus.  All for $20, score! I'm happy to support our local farmer.

The Good, the Bad, and the Beautiful

I thought it would be fun to kick off Father's Day weekend with a Friday evening visit out to a nearby beach spot called Malia Mai.  It's a beautiful, majestic spot.  The waves are huge and fierce and crash dramatically against black lava rock.   There are tide pools, a natural swimming hole, and lots of shells and coconut crabs. Sitting on this dramatic piece of beach is an equally dramatic old two story building or "resort".  I doubt it hosts many guests, and it's a little rough around the edges (like most everything here) but if you let yourself relax a bit, you can appreciate it's seaside weathered beauty.  It has lots of potential.  It is run by a very nice Samoan lady named Inofo (think 'I know fo sho').  Whenever the kids and I visit she comes out and chats with us. Her husband does a one man band happy hour on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

So we were all set.  We had our Subs Your Way sandwiches (a Subway knockoff, if you couldn't tell) and we were all heading out to the beach to hear a little music and eat and enjoy the sunset.  We pulled up and were the only car in the area, no big surprise.  We headed in and Grant went to chat with Inofo as I got the kids settled at a table and pulled out the food.  There were some island boys swimming in the little ocean pool and we exchanged "hellos".  They asked, "are you guys going to swim or just here for a little bit?" It seemed a totally normal question to me, at least here in Samoa.  People here in Samoa are, for the most part, extremely social and friendly.  I dare you to find a group of people more smiley and jokey and conversational.  It is extremely easy to start up conversations and so that is what I always expect.  So I figured this kid was just curious about our evening plans, "Um, no swimming for us tonight.  We're going to listen to music and eat and hang out for awhile"  More pleasantries and then they left.

About 10 minutes later I heard raised voices and lots of commotion.  Grant came over and told me someone just told him that a kid ran away from our car carrying a little black purse.  Um, what??? Turns out that "friendly" boy was trying to figure out how much time he had to scope out our car.  I had decided to leave my backpack in the car (which I never do) because I had a beach bag and the food bag and I figured I had everything I needed in the beach bag.  Well, I forgot my wallet was in the backpack AND we left the car unlocked.  I'll admit I'm really bad about locking my car.  I almost never do it.  Back home it's always unlocked.  My philosophy is, hey, if you really want some dirty toddler shoes, a half eaten granola bar, some kids books and some old 90s CDS, have at it! I never leave valuables in my car, so I never worry about locking.  But this time I had made a mistake.

Immediately I felt that horrible sinking feeling when the people around me started asking, "was that your black purse?"  "was there anything valuable in it?"  Yep, about 50 bucks cash, my ID and all my credit cards and debit card!  There were a couple of other young boys and an older lady who were watching the boys that stole my wallet. Initially she thought it was their car, but then saw them run away.  Also a man running for Congress was there and I'm not sure what he saw, but he was very helpful.  Inofo immediatly called the police and everyone was speaking loudly in Samoan so it was a little strange for me.  Inofo and the other lady, in a conversation of mixed English and Samoan, realized they knew the boy and his parents and even knew where he lived. That is one thing about living on a small island with virtually no tourists, everyone knows everyone!  Really, they do. The police showed up fairly quickly and first asked, "how could you leave the car unlocked?" and then asked, "Oh so you removed the tint off the windows?" Um, what? Can you please just help me! You see we bought our FJ cruiser from a police officer here on island and the windows were tinted so dark that we could not see at all when driving at night, so we had them removed.  Anyway, they took a statement from me and took pictures of the car, and apparently they knew the boy too.  Everyone left, and while I was hopeful because they seemed to know who it was, it was hard to stay positive because I know how things work around here.  Things move at a different speed and don't always follow a set protocol.  I didn't know if the police were even going to look for it.  And even if they did if it was tossed in the bushes it would probably be lost forever.  They place is surrounded by wild, jungly terrain. Inofo got me a glass of wine and I was soon laughing with her and her husband as he sang to us and even had a little comedy routine with a friend. They were very sweet and supportive.   I went to sleep knowing that I probably needed to get a new Samoan ID and cancel all my cards and wait FOREVER for new ones, because mail here takes like 3 or 4 weeks.  And the cash, I was sure, was gone.

Saturday morning I felt better, still bummed, but putting it behind me.  We went to a nice breakfast at DDW.  I always get my favorite island breakfast: Fried spam, rice, and tropical fruit. So good.  And the kids always get the banana pancakes with fresh made banana syrup.  It is SO good.  Then Grant took us over to Moana O Sina.  Moana O Sina is a little resort that Grant has stayed at many times here in Samoa.  He always tells me how beautiful it is and how much he likes it.   I knew it would be nice, but I was blown away. It's only about 10 minutes from our house, but I felt like we were a world away in our own little tropical paradise.  Everything from the gardens, to the local art decor in the sitting room, the fales, the pool, everything was spotless and pristine and spectacular.  American Samoa is a beautiful, beautiful place, but it is far from spotless.  I was so happy to be in a place with not one piece of trash laying about. Nary a neon pink Bongo bag in sight :-). The pool had a little wading pool (perfect for Finn) with a beautiful rock waterfall and from the pool you could see over the sea cliff to the crashing waves below.  It was amazing.  The sea sprays were breathtaking.

After that we headed back and on the way home I got a call from the police and they found MY WALLET! I was so excited!  It was at the Tafuna police station so we headed over there and I wandered through the strangest office building that looked completely deserted, kind of post apocalyptic, in fact,  but I finally found a tiny room with a police officer at his desk and there was my wallet.  He said the officer who found it was out, but asked me if it was mine and told me I could take it.  Do I need to sign anything? Nope.  Cash was gone, but all my cards and ID were there.  I was one happy camper.  

First Impressions

We arrived at the Pago airport tired. Finn was tired and crying hysterically as Levi and I waited for our bags at the baggage carousel. Normally collecting bags is no big deal, but in Pago it is hot and humid, crowded and non air conditioned and it usually takes awhile. Add in a crying three year old, and it becomes not fun. Finally we collected our bags and made it out of the airport, where our landlord's liaison Henry greeted us.

Henry is a Filipino who we discover immediately to be very friendly and helpful. He helped load our bags and drove us to the house we'll be living in for the next 10 months.

Henry gave us a quick tour (I had checked the house out briefly three months prior) and left. I looked at Sarah and saw her eyes well up with tears. "I don't know if I can live here for the next 10 months!" she said. We noticed holes in the screens, and a gap under the door where insects could get in. We both were bothered by the toxic odor from the recent fumigation and paint job. I was a little shell-shocked as I ran to the store for some food and considered my options.

Upon my return, we talked about it for awhile, decided that we'd try to get some rest and perspective, and went to sleep.

That night I woke up to get a drink of water, and I heard a distinct sound in the cupboard. I tapped a box of tea, and a large cockroach skittered away. Perfect. I didn't mention it to Sarah and went back to sleep.

After a couple of hours of sleep, Sarah and I talked it over and decided that we'd make some changes and "tighten the house up", but in the end, sit tight at the house.  We know that roaches are a part of life in the tropics, but the fact that we saw one the very first night when the house had fumigated and empty for two weeks left us wary of an infestation. Also that morning we did notice mosquito bites on the kids and realized mosquitoes and other bug may indeed be getting in through some of the screens. 

A week later, the toxic smell has faded somewhat, the roaches aren't regular guests, and the screens have been replaced or fixed. Sarah is feeling better about the house; in fact, there are things we like better here over the last house. People familiar with the house say it is one of the better houses on island, and we realize that we are lucky here. The kids love the yard.  They love playing hide and seek, watching the bats swoop down in the evening, and exploring. What a difference a week makes.

Back to the Rock

So this is actually the second blog about our adventures in American Samoa, otherwise known as "The Rock".  The first one was called "Sautners in Samoa". Five years ago, in May 2011, Sarah and I arrived on-island with our three year old son Levi, and Sarah blogged a bit about our time and this interesting place.

So we're back in American Samoa in May 2016, this time with Levi (now eight years old) and our three year old son, Finn.  We're hoping to share some of our daily life on island, as well as some of the things that American Samoa such a unique place. Sarah will blog some, I'll blog some, and maybe we'll get Levi to be a guest blogger. Stay tuned...

Layover in Oahu

We broke up our flight to American Samoa by scheduling a long weekend in Honolulu, staying near the airport in Waikiki. We arrived with 10 checked bags (actually nine -  one of our bags didn't make it out of Sacramento until a couple of days later), and took a shuttle over to the Hyatt Regency Waikiki. I give a Yelp score of four stars to the hotel; we received the Lei greeting, excellent service, a nice room, and great location right across the street from the Duke Kahanamoku statue, in the heart of Waikiki.

  

Knowing it was going to be the last chance for awhile to get our pick of restaurants, we took advantage and had a lot of great Japanese and Hawaiian influenced meals. Our favorite was a place we happened upon called Heavenly, where they served recipes made from locally sourced ingredients. We stopped there twice, having loco moco, green curry and ramen for dinner, and granola, fruit, french toast and loco moco(again) for breakfast. Deliciousness.

Levi and Finn had an absolute blast at the beach. Finn basically squealed as every wave approached; it put a big smile on my face. For the rest of our stay in Hawaii, Finn negotiated to go to the beach.

The best thing decision we made however was to rent a car and get out of Waikiki. On Saturday we drove out to the Bishop Museum, which is a complex of museum buildings featuring Pacific and Hawaiian history, a traveling exhibit (currently featuring candy, which seemed to capture the kids’ imagination), the Hawaiian sports hall of fame, a planetarium, local flora, and a hands-on science museum featuring a multi-story volcano. The highlight for me was the main room of the Pacific Museum, which was an open three story room looking like something out of a Harry Potter book.

  

We then drove across the island and saw some really dramatic, picturesque views. Unfortunately, we didn't take any pictures, as our phones ran out of juice.

Ah well, we returned the next day, driving to Waimea and around the north shore. We took a quick detour through an arboretum. Then we stopped at a shrimp truck, ate some pickled mango, and stopped at a farm where we ate a grilled banana bread dessert. We also stopped at a macadamia tree farm. Yeah, it was basically about the food.

We made two more stops that day, one at a spot called Shark's Cove, and then the justifiably popular Hanuama Bay for snorkeling. Levi gave snorkeling a try, but after taking in some salt water and generally struggling, he gave it up for another day. He later said snorkeling was the best and worst part of his day. We'll try again another time.

We did the beach again Monday morning for the kids, and then we headed over to the airport and caught our flight to American Samoa.

So that was Oahu - we really enjoyed ourselves over the long weekend. On to American Samoa!